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Thread: Aluminum Driveshaft (dynotech 3.5")

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    Aluminum Driveshaft (dynotech 3.5")

    Over this past weekend I got some goodies installed with one being an aluminum driveshaft (http://www.lethalperformance.com/05-...0d87184754e2c8). First off I didn't pay that amound for the DS, I picked it up secondhand from a FORD dealership for $350. A S197 GT was trading into this dealership with the DS installed so the dealer replaced with a factory 2-piece so then they could put the factory drivetrain warranty back with the car. I did a test drive last night and notice the car left lighter. When slowly releasing the clutch the car would grip and idle forward much easier. I drove the car to work today and it is a big difference. I would compare it to an CAI/Tune install...My factory two-piece shaft with all hardware weighed in at 44lbs. This aluminum shaft tipped my scale at 19lbs including the pinion adapter.

    Only thing left is to get the pinion angle perfect (taking to a shop) and adjust my panhard bar. Also looking into LCA relocation brackets now and I should be set with the rear suspension.

    Next I'm planning to jump to the front and install UPR K-Member with A-Arms...

    **CLIFF NOTES** - I highly suggest an aluminum driveshaft (or carbon-fiber) to cut weight from the stock 2 piece. Supporting mods like adjustable upper control arm are neccessary.

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    Very cool!!



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    Good to hear the comments about your driving impressions, Kevo! The aluminum DS mod is at the top of my list for my next Mod.
    I've read that unless your car lowered, the install should be a straight swap. Did you have to move the E-brake bracket for clearance, since your car is lowered?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wraith413 View Post
    I've read that unless your car lowered, the install should be a straight swap. Did you have to move the E-brake bracket for clearance, since your car is lowered?
    I didn't have to relocated or modify anything. For a stock height mustang it would be a straight swap with either a 4" or 3.5" shaft. From what I've read there can be clearance issues with a 4" shaft on a lowered mustang but that is the reason 3.5" shafts started to hit the market. I have the eibach pro-kit and didn't have any issues. Needed panhard bar to get the axle centered back under the car and adjustable UCA to fix the pinion angle, I adjusted before installing compared to the stock unit so the vibration is better but should be completely gone once I find someone with a pinion angle finder. Overall very pleased...pretty much say I'm out of bolt-ons now...

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    very cool! now im excited as i installed an aluminum ds over the winter also, but i have yet to put it to the test

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    Installing UPR UCA/LCA - J&M Panhard bar (@ friend's house)

    Wonderful wife getting dirty and helping out

    Driveshaft Comparison

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    vary awesome man...once I end up with another mustang take a guess at what one of the mods are going to be?


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    I'm not usually one to post about upgrades but when they make a "feel-able" difference I try to let others know. Got to say I'm pretty happy with my car just being full bolt-on at the moment. Quick car that is reliable - need to get on the dyno for a strick dyno tune and off the email order.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stangmansteve View Post
    vary awesome man...once I end up with another mustang take a guess at what one of the mods are going to be?
    A huge ricer wing? :D


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    those aluminum driveshafts are pretty nice, especially when it falls out of the transmission and you can catch it with one hand
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    The reduction in rotational mass is truly noticeable as the OP stated. I battled (still am) a harmonics issue with mine and had it in and out several times. Car felt like a slug every time the OEM driveshaft went back in the car. Dynatech is a very good company with great customer service. I took my shaft back and they reversed the ends of the slip joint and rebalanced the shaft to specs tighter than their NASCAR shafts. It helped with the harmonics but didn't cure it. If you are in the market for a light weight driveshaft, I would consider a shaft with a CV joint or even better, carbon fiber with a CV joint.

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    I didn't notice too much of a difference when I went to an OEM aluminum 03-04 Cobra driveshaft, but it did solve a lot of vibration. Before, the dash would squeek and rattle a little when cruising above 70. Now it's fine up past 80, and I've never cruised at over 90.
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    I got a little vibe around 80mph with the new DS but that should be cured once I get the pinion angle perfect. I don't have a pinion angle finder and wouldn't trust myself do geometry. Hopefully next week to drop off at a shop to get her all aligned up. Then bodyshop time for some touchups and possible dyno pulls.

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    Wink

    Yes, my DSS 3.5" Aluminum 1-pc was my first real go-fast mod other than exhaust and running my buddy's SCT-tuned/CAI '06 was a neck-and-neck race. We were DEAD even, heh. Worth the tune, so do both for some real fun.

    As far as angle goes...poly bushings in your control arms (both upper and lower) will need -1.5 to -2.0º downward angle. Rubber (factory) gets -2.0 to -3.0º down. Solid (spherical bushing) gets -0.5 to -1.0º down. Measure with a level and protractor you can buy @ the local everything store (a.k.a. wally world). Protractor @ crank pully with long side against pulley, move protractor radius to where the level evens out the bubble and you get your degree of driveline through the end of the transmission when perfectly zero'd on the level's bubble. Measure your pinion yoke in its vertical position the same, and should be at the specification below the crank measurement and done! PITA to do alone on a lift, worse on jack stands, but worth it, trust me. iPhones get a level app and make this 10x easier; some Androids, can get it, too. Helps to have an ADJUSTABLE upper control arm, by the way, heh. Pretty much a requirement, I think, to get the precise angle. Further tuning of the angle will be left to a test drive and either clocking your DS to correct 180º @ pinion yoke, or clocking 90º @ a time @ the transmission flange. Maybe adjust SLIGHTLY upward and take another drive. Good luck. If still vibing, I'd try to find a shop with a TIG welder to rebalance it. Anyone with a balancing machine for a DS and TIG welder can balance it.
    Last edited by dragrace4fun; 01-11-2012 at 11:22 PM.
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